Alishan and its transport links were severely damaged by Typhoon Morakot. Most of the railway is closed until late 2011. However, two popular tourist lines within the recreation area re-opened in June 2010.
By train
Take the famous Alishan Forest Railway narrow-gauge train from Chiayi station the old one, not the new HSR station at Taibao. A one-way costs NTD$399 about US$13 and takes around 3.5 hours. The train passes through the scenic village of Fencihu å¥®èµ·æ¹ halfway up and the village of Ruili çé is also accessible several km away from Jiaoliping 交ååª station. Don't miss this trip, especially if you're a train or architecture buff, as the line is largely the same as it was before WW2 — but you might want to consider a bus for the way back it takes about 4.5 hours for the return trip.
As of 2009, there are two daily departures from Chiayi at 9 AM and 1 PM, returning from Alishan at 11 AM and noon. The railway will happily sell standing room tickets and during peak periods like summer and the cherry blossom season trains can get very crowded, so book ahead by calling operator Hungtu Alishan at 05225-1978, preferably in Chinese, and show up at least 30 min before departure to collect your tickets. Alternatively, there are usually "scalpers" standing outside the ticket window selling tickets at-cost, in the hope that you will also book a room in the hotel they work for. In Chiayi station, note that the Alishan ticket counter is on the outside of the building, separate from the ordinary TRA counters.
Note: As of December 2009, the railroad was closed due to major repairs after a typhoon struck. In June 2010, the Jhushan Sunrise-Watching Line ç¥å±±è§æ¥ç· and the Divine Tree Line ç¥æ¨ç· within the recreation area re-opened, but the line down the mountain is not expected to re-open until late 2011. (http://www.chinapost.com....) (http://www.taipeitimes.co...) Oct 2011: Locals state that the re-opening of the railway from Chiayi to Alishan will take an additional 1-2 years.